An essential stop for visitors to the Highlands and NC500 road trippers, Inverness is also a fantastic base from which to explore some of the highlights of Scotland. In this guide you’ll find the best things to do in Inverness plus our advice on where to stay, eat, and how to get there.
For us, Inverness will always be the place where we first heard ‘Wild Mountain Thyme’.
It was a late balmy June night in a packed Hootananny, a live music institution in the city centre, but the female singer had lulled all of us with the first lines:
‘O the summer time has come
And the trees are sweetly bloomin'‘
We were transfixed.
That night was five years ago, but the Scottish folk song was a constant on our playlist as we drove the North Coast 500 over the following eight or nine days, as well as occasionally being belted out (badly) after a few too many at the pub.
Since then, our travels have brought us back along the high road to Inverness a bunch of times, usually in search of those wild mountains.
For many of you, Inverness will be calling for similar reasons.
As well as being the start and endpoint of Britain’s best road trip, this small river city has always served as the gateway to the Scottish Highlands. Those in search of glens and lochs, open spaces, an underrated coastline, a whisky trail, or following in the footsteps of tartan-clad ancestors or their favourite fictional characters, all lay their heads here for a night or two out of choice and, sometimes, necessity; as the most northerly city in Scotland, it can involve a bit of a time to get up here.
For first-timers in Scotland therefore, Inverness is almost as mandatory a stop as Edinburgh.
That stop may not necessarily be for Inverness itself, but rather what lays on its doorstep.
A mythical monster. Tales of outlaws and outlanders. A site of great Scottish loss. The sort of landscapes which have underpinned the romanticisation of Scotland and ‘Scottishness’ over the last three or four hundred years.
In this short guide, we’ve shared all the essentials for first-time visitors to have a good day in Inverness before heading north and travellers using it as a base to explore the region for a few days. From our favourite things to do in Inverness, personal tips on where to stay, eat, and drink in the ‘capital of the Highlands’, and advice on day trips and how to get here with public transport, we’ve got you covered.
These are 10 great things to do in Inverness.
Where Edinburgh has its castle in the city centre, Inverness has…its castle in the city centre.
There are quite a few differences in scale, aesthetics, and purpose however.
Inverness has had castles and fortifications since at least the 11th century, but they have fallen, changed, and moved according to who has been on the winning side in various conflicts throughout history. Most notably, Inverness Castle (or Fort George) was captured by the rebellious Bonnie Prince Charlie in the 1746 during the siege of Inverness, only to be destroyed later by victorious British government forces.
And this is why the delicate pinky-red sandstone structure atop the small hill by the river Ness is not as old as may visitors may assume…and isn’t a castle of kings & queens. Dating from the 1830s, it was built as a court and prison in a ‘castellated’ architectural style, and the majority of it is not open to the public.
Nevertheless, the Castle and Castle Hill are a signature of the skyline, offering up the best viewpoint in Inverness from its grounds and the narrow tower which gives 360 degree views out over the Moray Firth to the south and the Highlands to the north.
Or at least, the narrow tower used to offer the best viewpoint… after the sheriff courts moved to a new building in 2020, plans have recently been approved for a largescale renovation of Inverness Castle. It’s slated to have an exhibition space, cafes and a roof terrace, and to be a ‘world-class tourist attraction’ by 2025 at the heart of the ‘regeneration of Inverness city centre’. In the meantime for tourists however, this means that access is closed for the next few ways as building works take place.
You can however still head up to the ground outside the Castle, where you’ll find the statue of Flora MacDonald, benches, and pleasant views too.
The Castle is located here on Google Maps.
Charles Leakey has made a life among the books for most of his life, but it wasn’t until having outgrown his smaller shop elsewhere in Inverness that he took a chance on converting an 18th century Gaelic Church.
That was 28 years ago; this impressive and altogether unique building now houses around 100,000 books (and a surprising number of fires). Said to be the largest second-hand bookshop in Scotland, you will of course find a wide variety of books on Scottish history alongside tomes from all the UK’s literary greats, but all tastes and interests are catered to (we spent a long time perusing Soviet Era non-fiction and leafing through the photography section). He also stocks an excellent selection of rare prints and maps.
We honestly don’t think it’s not overstating it to say that a visit to Leakey’s Bookshop should be very high on everybody’s list of things to do in Inverness.
If stopping by, please do go out of your way to support this independent bookshop by actually buying something.
The Essentials | Open 10 am - 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. Find it here on Google Maps.
In a country full of lochs (lakes), with the Highlands landscape dotted with bodies of water large and smalll, none are as famous as Loch Ness; the home of a monster.
Whether you believe in it or not, there’s no doubt that the various sightings of a massive creature in the depths of Loch Ness - the long narrow lake from which the city takes its name - by a humble fisherman was the biggest marketing boon anyone could have come up with.
Films are made about it, there’s endless documentaries, there’s often a news story about a new sighting, thousands visit purely to try and catch a glimpse, and you won’t go far in Inverness or the surrounding area without seeing something branded with a cartoon of Nessie!
It’s a monster attraction, in more ways than one.
If you’ve got kids, by all means keep the myth of the Loch Ness monster alive to invoke a spirit of curiosity and adventure within them (or just give you a bit of peace whilst you’re out on the water) - one half of Along Dusty Roads fondly remembers his first childhood trip to Inverness and how much it excited him to imagine he’d be the one to finally spot it.
For those that tend to believe dinosaurs did indeed die out several millennia ago, or whatever was Nessie may not have survived this long, the vast loch that stretches 23 miles from Inverness to Fort Augustus is still an exceptionally beautiful place to visit and explore from the city.
A boat trip across Loch Ness is the most popular way to experience the famous loch (and spot Nessie), with many including pick-up / drop-off from Inverness. The following are highly rated:
Tour One | Spend a full day hunting for Nessie, cruising on Loch Ness, and exploring the pretty village of Fort Augustus. Also includes time at Falls of Foyers and Dores Beach, and the option to visit Urquhart Castle. Find out more here.
Tour Two | This full day tour takes in the best of the Loch Ness area, including an optional ferry ride for panoramic views of Urquhart Castle. Find out more here.
If you have your own car or a rental, then heading out for a scenic drive around Loch Ness, with a stop in Fort Augustus, is a good idea.
For anyone arriving from sprawling urban environments, Inverness may appear to be a town masquerading as a city.
Down by the riverside, it’s peaceful and calm. The centre is compact and very walkable (but in need of a bit of regeneration in parts to be honest), and the pace isn’t frenetic.
If you’re left with the impression this feels pretty small for a city, there’s a pretty good reason: Inverness was only designated as a city two decades ago! To be granted city status in Britain is quite rare and bestowed by personal Command of the Queen, with Inverness being included with several others in 2000 to mark the new millennium.
Given its compactness, it is quite straightforward to become acquainted with the city centre and both banks of the river.
However, that only reveals half the story.
The older we’ve gotten and the more we’ve travelled, the more we’ve begun to appreciate the benefits that hearing locals stories from local people (and local experts) can add to our experiences across the world - and how much a walking tour upon arrival can help orientate our time in a new place, set the scene to delve deeper, and bring the place and its monuments to life with stories you’d otherwise never hear.
In Inverness, the most popular walking tour visitors can join is this 1.5 hour option with a local expert, including stops at the Castle, Cathedral, River Ness and Old High Church.
It departs every day at 11.30 am and 6 pm from the VisitScotland iCentre, and advance booking is essential. Full details can be found here, as well as the option to book.
If you’re keen to cover a little more ground on your tour - and perhaps burn off some of those pub lunches - consider this two hour hugely popular Inverness bike tour along the city’s waterways. Find out more and book here.
Despite what the Irish, the Japanese, and the Americans may say, there is little doubt that the world’s very best whisky is 100% Scottish, and that will always be the case.
With many of the country’s most famous malts hailing from the Highlands, it would therefore be somewhat scandalous for anyone with even a passing interest in what George Bernard Shaw refers to as ‘liquid sunshine’ to visit this part of the world and not indulge in at least a few small drams.
Should you be basing yourself in Inverness, with a super tight programme that doesn’t allow for visits to nearby distilleries, we’d recommend making your way down to The Malt Room in the evening (an excellent whisky bar in the centre of the city). Super knowledgeable staff are on hand to provide advice, with a large selection of whiskies from which you can choose or be guided. Handily, they also offer tasting flights for those that would like to sample a few different malts (from £25 to £150).
Alternatively, if you have the time to head out to the distilleries themselves, then you’ll be pleased to know that there are a surprisingly large number of them within an hour or so of Inverness, and it’s possible to visit on a DIY tour. For a full breakdown, head over to our guide to The Best Distilleries Near Inverness (and How to Visit Them).
As a distillery visit always being better if you can actually taste as much of the stuff as is sensible, a number of companies offer full day tours to various distilleries near Inverness. However we’ve noted that it’s quite rare for the tour price to include all entrance fees (and almost never the additional cost of multiple tastings), even pricey tours such as this one.
Instead, we’d recommend this highly rated Speyside Whisky & Moray Firth Tour which includes transport, a knowledgeable guide and visits to the Benromach and the Glennfiddich Distilleries, time in the pleasant town of Elgin and a stop at Speyside Cooperage. Find out more here.
Built in 1890, Inverness’ Victorian Market is a delight for lovers of this period of architecture (be sure to look up for spectacular views of the red steel arches, original windows and reproduction lanterns), as well as being the place to enjoy some of the city’s best independent shopping options under one roof.
Inside you’ll find a handful of good jewellery stores, plenty of spots to grab a gift or souvenir, a bag-pipe shop (yes, really), and several food and drink places - including our favourite coffee spot in Inverness - The Milk Bar. All beans are locally roasted, the barista really knows what they’re doing and they also offer plenty of indulgent sweet treats.
Should you be staying somewhere that doesn’t include breakfast, we can recommend Anya’s Cafe for simple, filling, unpretentious start to the day (including decent veggie options).
You can find the market here, but note there are several different entrances / exits from Academy Street, Union Street, and Church Street.
Note that The Victorian Market is currently undergoing a fair bit of regenerative work with plans to open a small food court. If this has opened by the time you visit, we’d love to hear your thoughts!
Tip | If you’re based in Inverness, but dream of riding the Harry Potter Train / Jacobite Express and photographing its journey over the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct, then this full day-tour leaving from Inverness is a fantastic option. It also allows you to go deeper into the Highlands, with transport, tour guide, and train tickets all included - find out more or book here.
Following a couple of trips to the Highlands, a few excellent podcasts, the odd book and numerous hours spent on Google we feel like we’re finally beginning to get to grips with Scottish history - or specifically the potted history of this part of Scotland.
For first-time visitors however, we have no doubt that a history this old can cause a fair bit of confusion. That’s why we recommend that alongside the odd guided tour (and perhaps a bit of personal research), you consider visiting one of several educational centres and museums across the Highlands.
In Inverness, the best place to fill in the blanks is the city’s museum and art gallery.
With geological displays, period rooms with historic weapons, age-old artefacts and wildlife exhibits, hopefully you’ll leave knowing your Pictish from your Jacobites, the roles the Vikings and Normans played in modern day Scotland and be set up to discover many of the historical sites within day-trip distance with a better perspective!
The Essentials | Open 10 am - 5 pm, Tuesday to Saturday in the summer, and until 4 pm in the winter. Entry is currently free (we will try and keep this price updated, but please do let us know in the comments if this changes). You can find it here on Google Maps.
Tip | To step back in time in an entirely different way, make your way to Old Town Curiosities (Google Maps), a wonderful little riverside antique store with all sorts of curios, collectables and vintage items. You can find it here on Google Maps. Do note that they have very limited opening hours (Monday 12-3, Friday and Saturday 11-3).
We have a confession to make: neither of us have watched a single episode of Outlander.
However, we haven’t been hiding under a rock for the last few years, and are well aware that this hugely popular book series is directly inspired by this part of the world and many scenes of the subsequent TV show have been filmed in this part of the world.
You can of course piece together your own DIY tour, visiting places such as Culloden, Loch Ness, Clava Cairns and Urquhart Castle, but for those who crave a guide to bring it all to light, check out this highly-rated full day tour (run by excellent and knowledgeable guides, and including visits to eleven filming locations). It can be pretty pricey if you are travelling by yourself, but much more reasonable if there are three of you. You can find out more here.
Looking for more excellent Inverness day trip ideas? Pop on over to our ‘Best Day Trips from Inverness’ post next.
Andrew, the Scottish half of Along Dusty Roads, often wears his kilt when we’re travelling in his homeland.
If you’re keen to learn a little more about traditional Highland dress, then Inverness is the place to be. There are no shortage of shops selling kilts and tartan goods (of varying quality) in the town centre, and staff will be happy to help you find the right tartan or try on before buying. However, it’s the Scottish Kiltmaker Visitor Centre across the Ness Bridge on the west bank of the river which will give you a bit more insight into the craft and traditions of it.
The small museum has a short video and a few displays, sometimes involving kilt-making demonstration or a paid guided tour, but it’s also attached to big shop so ideal to pick up a better quality Scottish souvenir.
Find it here on Google Maps.
Whilst Inverness is indeed surrounded by spectacular Scottish countryside, for a change to wander amongst a forest you don’t even need to leave the city - instead, simply head on foot or bike to the Ness Islands.
Located just a 20-minute stroll from the centre, you will find a collection of small islands in the middle of the River Ness, all connected by a series of elegant Victorian foot bridges.
The Ness Islands can be found here on Google Maps, and in order to reach them simply head upstream on either side of the river (the start of the Great Glen Way), and return back to the city centre on the opposite bank.
If you wish to complete the entire loop, you’ll need between one and two hours; if you’re short on time, be sure to take advantage of the bridges that will allow you to make some easy short cuts.
Road Trip | Are you travelling to Inverness to start the North Coast 500? We have lots of guides on how to make the very most of your time on Britain’s best road trip, with lots of insider tips and recommendations. The best place to begin is this post: 23 Things To Know Before Driving The North Coast 500.
As mentioned at the top, our first visit to Inverness occurred way back in 2016; years before the global pandemic, before social distancing, when you could still enjoy live music in packed bars. Back then, when asking locals for their nightlife recommendations, there was only one answer: Hootanany, a traditional Scottish music venue and award-winning Inverness institution.
Whilst Hootananny has been forced to remain shut since March 2020, they are due to reopen in the not so distant future and - in our opinion at least - is an essential part of any visit to the capital of the Highlands.
The Essentials | Hootananny can been found here on Google Maps, and you can check for opening updates on their website.
Alternatives options for a pub with live music are MacGregor’s (Google Maps) and Johnny Foxes, whilst the Ironworks is the main venue in the city.
We were delighted to discover Perk (Google Maps) on our latest visit to the city. Unmissable with it's fresh, bright yellow, it’s got decadently tasty vegan doughnuts, plus soups and good veggie and non-veggie toasties for lunch. It closes at 3 pm though, so don’t leave it too late.
MacGregor’s, the bar just across the road from the Leakey’s Bookshop, has an excellent selection of local draught ales, ciders and sours, all available as a half, third or full pint - the perfect spot for a refreshment as you wander around the city or to leaf through your recent purchase. They also have live music some evenings.
Alternatively, the Black Isle Bar is located 100m along Church Street. We didn’t drink at this particular one, but after trying their sister bar in Fort William can highly recommend their beers (the brewery is just up the road) - they also do decent pizzas at reasonable prices.
For excellent wine selections, don’t miss The Walrus & Corkscrew. Cosy indoors and pleasant outdoor seating area, they also offer charcuterie boards - including a vegan cheese platter option!
The best place for an evening meal, for our money at least, is Mustard Seed. With a well-curated menu engaging local suppliers, and an atmospheric modern double-level dining space on the riverside, it’s also very popular so we highly recommend booking ahead for dinner (especially on weekends). Opening times are 12 - 3 pm and 5 - 10 pm, with an early evening menu seating available until 6.45 pm.
Alternatively, we can HIGHLY recommend La Tortilla, located just opposite the Castle. Really excellent staff, pleasant surroundings and - most importantly - excellent and authentic Spanish tapas. For pre or post dinner drinks, be sure to nip into the nearby Castle Tavern who have an excellent selection of proper ales (after a few visits to Inverness, it’s probably our favourite pub in the city).
Staying on the east bank of the river or on the riverside is what we recommend.
The hotels and guesthouses next to the river are in a prime location, but you’ll also find lots of traditional bed & breakfasts in beautiful big old houses on quiet residential streets.
However, as the city is so compact, you’ll never really be more than 10-minutes walk from the centre wherever you stay.
Should you use Inverness as a base for your Scottish Highlands trip? For us, it depends on you travel style and what you wish to experience. If you're in Scotland for a limited amount of time, and it’s your first visit here, then staying in Inverness for two or three nights will allow you to access a few heritage highlights (Culloden & Urqhuart Castle), landscapes (i.e. Loch Ness), and popular sites (i.e. the Glenfinnan Viaduct or Harry Potter Train), whilst having the comfort and convenience of being in the small city itself (and enjoying a dram or two in the evening). This can be done independently on day trips or with tours.
However, if you have long or are more of an independent traveller hoping to spend time in the more remote, rural areas of the Highlands - or on hikes - then Inverness is probably best viewed as a stop for a night or two at the beginning or at the end, before your drive further north or west to join the NC500 or head toward Fort William, Ben Nevis, or Glencoe.
We’ve done the hard work for you and selected the best, or best value, accommodation for your travel style or budget.
The Glenmoriston Townhouse Hotel | Where we go when in Inverness. A stylish 4-star hotel right by the river, this is a classy, modern twist on the traditional Highland aesthetic. Single and double en-suite private rooms available from £80 / night, breakfast included. Check prices and availability here.
Heathmount Hotel | Judging this place from the outside would be a mistake! With colourful modern boutique rooms, comfy beds, and a popular bar/restaurant in the same buildings, it's a great option for couples. Breakfast is included, It's 10 minutes walk from Inverness Castle and the train station are a 10 minute walk away, and it's dog-friendly too! £126 / night. Check prices and availability here.
The Royal Highland Hotel | A long-time favourite in the centre of Inverness, this large hotel has been recently updated but retains its grandeur of old. A great pick if you're looking for a classic Scottish hotel experience with all the required amenities and services - an alternative would be the Best Western Inverness Palace Hotel & Spa.
An Grianan | This delightful B&B, located in a quiet residential street of Inverness, is a fantastic place to use as a base for exploring the city and the surrounding area (it’s also we stayed before our NC500 trip!). Run by a friendly local couple who are only too happy to give your tips and suggestions for visiting the Highlands, the impeccably well-designed rooms are decadently comfortable and full of home comforts. If you're lucky, there may also be home-made cakes to return to after a day of sight-seeing! Find out prices and availability here.
Taigh Katie | A bright newly refurbished double room in stylish house. Guest also have exclusive use of a large, refurbished bathroom. This is really excellent value if you do not require various additional flourishes of a B&B experience - check availability here.
Doric House | With an enthusiastic, welcoming local host who works for the Tourist Board, this Bed & Breakfast offers a great start point before the North Coast 500 for local insights and inspiration. Located in the heart of town but on quiet back road, a simple breakfast is included alongside your private en-suite king room - check availability here.
BlueNess | Another' don't judge it from the outside' option, this flat has bright, airy flat has been done up with so much care and attention to detail and would be a perfect base in Inverness. It is a short walk to the city centre in a residential area, but also a lot better value than many others Airbnbs in the centre, who take advantage of the amount of tourist traffic in summer with craaazy prices - take a look + view availability here
City Centre Apartment | This city centre 1 bedroom flat has everything you'll need for a night or longer, is in an excellent location, plus has free parking. For only £75 a night for the whole place, there's a reason why it's so popular with so many visitors to Inverness! Check availability here.
Bazpackers Hostel is by far the most popular option in the city, with a range of affordable dorms and private rooms for travellers - check availability here.
